Thursday, September 20, 2007

Garden of Europe

Gardens have been cultivated since 1500 BC in Egypt, and have served as a backdrop for many a love story as well as inspiration for generations of artists, musicians and poets.

I too am on a perennial quest for inspiration, and seek out these botanical wonders every chance I get.

In spring this year, I was thrilled to be given a tour of the Garden of Europe, otherwise known as Keukenhof by my new friend, Erik Maitimo. The gardens are situated just outside the town of Lisse, South Holland.


Aunty Jo-Jo enjoying spring blooms @ Keukenhof Gardens, Holland

I can hardly describe the thrill at entering those gardens. Although the tulip season was largely over, the setting was so beautiful. The blue sky, fresh air, gorgeous flowers and tranquil park lent a dreamlike quality to our morning stroll. We spent 2 leisurely hours strolling through the different pavilions, and even stopped for a coffee. There was a indoor pavilion filled with some of my favourite flowers - tropical lilies - in every colour! The heady scent of the blooms was almost too much to bear.





These flowers are part of the annual exhibit that allows growers from all over the Netherlands and Europe to show off their hybrids. Netherlands is the world's largest exporter of flowers.

In fact, did you know that the first stock market crash was caused by tulips? In the early 17th century, tulips could cost up to 1000 Dutch florins and were exchanged for land, livestock and houses. However in 1637, tulip traders could no longer get the inflated prices for the bulbs and the bubble burst.

From that day onwards, the pattern has been repeated with junk bonds, dot-coms and sub-prime mortgages ;-)

Sunday, September 16, 2007

Food glorious food (Part 2)

"The history of the world is on a plate" - Anthony Bourdain

And if this ascerbic-witted food writer is right, then my stomach has certainly made history. I've eaten my way through quite a few countries and encountered some very unique flavours.

Aunty Jo-Jo trying Dutch raw herring

Earlier this year I visited Marken, a picturesque Dutch fishing village and was persuaded to try Hollandse Nieuwe, or raw herring. It is typically served with raw onions and available only in spring. While I had heard the "horror stories" and seen the shudders of the non-Dutch when raw herring is mentioned, it tasted just like sashimi - only saltier and more fishy-smelling.


Aunty Jo-Jo helping to cook an authentic Spanish paella

One of the highlights of my travels last year took place in a backyard in Geelong, Australia. Luis Alonso, an Australian of Spanish descent, taught me how to cook an authentic Spanish paella. It's a beautiful rice dish that's cooked in a large flat pan with lots of chicken, prawns and mussels thrown in for good measure. But the most important ingredient that gives paella its distinctive colour is saffron. This spice is insanely expensive - US$600 - US$2000 per pound. And that's why Luis only allowed us to use 2 dabs from his precious thimble.



And last but not least, let's come back to Malaysian shores and talk about the durian. This king of fruit has been given so much bad press in the foreign media but let me assure you, it's the best thing in the world. The sweet rich custardy texture that springs from the thorny shell is poetry on the palate. In my humble opinion, the best durians originate from Balik Pulau in Penang, where my parents live. And the most divine durian of all is the "ang her" (loosely translated as "red prawn") . Don't just take my word for it - go try it for yourself!

Food glorious food (Part 1)

One of the biggest pleasures I derive from travel is the opportunity to sample wonderful world cuisines. In all my travels, I have yet to meet someone who's not proud of his national cuisine, and asking a person what they're eating is a great way to start a conversation. Some dishes are delightful from the first bite, but others take some getting used to.

Here are a sample of dishes that appear regularly on "Fear Factor" ;-)


Balut is a fertilized duck egg with a nearly-developed embryo inside that is boiled and eaten in the shell. The first time I tried this was in the Philippines in 2006. And the only thing I can say is "It looks worse than it tastes". The anticipation of peeling the egg - and seeing the beak, feathers and webbed feet was really fascinating. When I finally popped it into my mouth, it just tasted like egg yolk - very rich egg yolk!


Beondegi is a street snack that I tried at the Namdaemun night market in Seoul, Korea. I was visiting the market with a client, and in the spirit of "exceeding client expectations", I popped these 3 cm brown sacs into my mouth. When the sacs revealed bits of squidgy legs and antennae, I realised this was not a simple popcorn snack - they were boiled silkworm pupae!


Stinky tofu is basically fermented beancurd. Being Chinese, I've eaten tofu from infancy, but nothing prepared me for this delicacy. I tried this for the first time at a night market in Mailiao, Taiwan. Firstly, it takes a lot of courage to even approach the stall because of serious pong (much like the smell of full garbage trucks in a tropical climate). The taste is just like tofu that's gone off. However, the pickled cabbage that is served together with this does help offset the "strange"ness of the flavours.



Black pudding is a blood sausage. It is served as part of a cooked breakfast in England. The first time I had it was in a "greasy spoon" in Barnsley, Yorkshire. It tasted fine -similar to the Chinese liver "lap cheong" or sausage. But I preferred the rest of the English breakfast - sausages, bacon, baked beans, mushrooms, tomatoes, buttered bread - washed down with huge mugs of tea...YUUUUMMMM!

Note: Individual food shots are borrowed from Wikipedia. Only the Aunty Jo-Jo eating balut shot is from my camera

Saturday, September 08, 2007

What's the best place you've visited?

...is a question that I often get asked, whenever I share stories about my travels.

It's really difficult to answer this question diplomatically so I usually say something like "Every place is unique" or "I love all the different experiences". But truthfully, if you really must know, it's New Zealand (shhh...please don't tell my Aussie friends).

Aoteroa - the Land of the Long White Cloud is breathtakingly beautiful. The next few pictures speak for themselves.

Aunty Jo- Jo @ Queenstown amongst the gorgeous lupins


The foreshore of Lake Tekapo is a scene I often associate with the words "heaven on earth". The turquoise blue waters and multi-coloured lupins are just so incredibly beautiful. The modest Church of the Good Shepherd situated right next to the lake has one of the most amazing altars of all - no man made stained glass windows - just pure CREATION.


This view of the Remarkables Ranges is what I enjoyed as I floated to the ground following my skydive. My tandem instructor really cracked me up with this phrase - "Welcome to my office! Great view huh?"




There are so many exciting activities for adrenaline junkies in New Zealand. I enjoyed a heli-hike up the Fox Glacier and got to "cuddle up" with Craig, a guide, in an ice cave...heh...heh... enough said.

Monday, September 03, 2007

Conquering Mt Kinabalu

Aunty Jo-Jo @ Laban Rata, Mt Kinabalu in her best "Indiana Jones" pose

After years of seeking adventures abroad, I finally returned to Malaysian shores to experience my own country. And what better place than Mt Kinabalu, in all her glorious splendour. In 2003, Harvey, my long-time travel companion, talked me into attempting the Mt Kinabalu climb. The dare-devil in me agreed but Ms Lazy-Bones soon started protesting when I hauled her to the gym every day, and up 15 flights of stairs twice a week. Training was tough but it had to be done.

We flew to Kota Kinabalu and spent the night at the National Park, before starting out early next morning from the Timpohan Gate. I was persuaded by an Orang Asli to purchase a RM3 walking stick...and it turned out to be a LIFESAVER! There were steps cut out along the trail but they were ginormous! A little five-footer like me had to struggle all the way. The rain didn't help either.


Aunty Jo-Jo and Harvey @ the Laban Rata Rest House enjoying the view of Sabah

Despite the physical strain, I was constantly delighted by the fauna & flora along the way. The foliage transformed from tropical jungles, to bonsai forests to little bushes all within an 8 hour-climb.

It was so embarassing to be overtaken by 50+year old aunties hauling gas tanks up the mountain wearing only Japanese slippers! Sigh..but after a couple of slips and trips, I finally hauled myself into the Laban Rata guest house. What a relief.

The next morning, we started out at 2am and headed for the peak to catch the sunrise. Harvey surged ahead with my camera and several other He-Men we had met the night before. I had to take it slow because I was feeling the effects of altitude sickness. At one point, I had a rather amusing conversation with Erik the guide.

Aunty Jo-Jo: What happens if I make it to the top but can't come down? Can some guides carry me down?

Erik : Sorry Miss, stretcher sudah habis! (We've run out of stretchers!)

At 3200 meters, I started feeling chest pains and developed a ringing sound in my ears (as a result of reduced oxygen to the brain), Erik and I discussed the options. I still had another 800 tough meters to climb, and an even tougher descent the same day.

It was a tough call but I decided to turn back.

Harvey made it to the top, took some photos, and bounced all the way back to the guesthouse, high on adrenaline. He had a look of sheer joy on his face..WELL DONE Ah Boy!


Aunty Jo-Jo & Harvey @ Bavangazo Longhouse with traditional dancers

In addition to the Kinabalu adventure, Harvey had also arranged a cultural side-trip to a longhouse. We were guests of a headman and his family at the Bavangazo Longhouse. We were served delicious meals of vegetables & chickens from the garden, and entertained all night with traditional dances. And that's where the hospitality ended. While the family retired into their modern air-conditioned longhouse (complete with a satellite dish), Harvey and I were left to battle mosquitoes, wild boars and cockerels all night in our "rustic but authentic" longhouse!

Still, it was one of my best holidays ever...