Penang Eats

This is my most frequently requested list, from friends who know that Penang is my Malaysian home.  Here's a list of places that I have personally dined at and enjoyed.  It may not match many of the known foodie blog posts out there, and that's because this is where locals (not tourists) dine :)

• Cecil Street Hawker Centre | Also known as Chit Teow Lor Ban San (in Hokkien) or Seventh Street Market | A list of my personal favourite dishes are listed in detail here including curry mee, koay teow thng, char koay teow, pasembur, popiah, nyonya kueh...seriously the list is endless
• Winn's Cafe | Authentic northern Nyonya cuisine.  I highly recommend the nasi ulam, otak-otak, salted fish curry and sambal belachan. Be sure to check out the art gallery upstairs as well.
  
• Double Good Restaurant | Chinese restaurant where I host monthly dinners for my extended family.  Skip their set menus and order a la carte instead.  I recommend the Indonesian prawns claypot, steamed garoupa fish HK style, salted egg mantis prawn, braised pork trotters, sweet & sour pork, kailan double style, fuyong omelette
  
• Pitt St Koay Teow Thng | Michelin street food is now a thing in Penang so if you must indulge, this noodle soup dish is a good place to start.  The fishballs and meatballs are all made in-house and the taste and texture is uniquely delicious.  Be warned : the ladies who run this place are loud, really loud. 
• Joo Leong Cafe | Butter toast and half-boiled eggs with local coffee & tea for breakfast.  My family has been coming to this local village shop for decades.  Was surprised when it was discovered by bloggers.  The owners were my dad's mahjong buddies.  It's conveniently located on the way to the Penang International Airport.  
  
• China House | This is my one nod to tourists' favourites. It's worthy of mention for the novelty of having 4 dining concepts under one roof: cafe with delicious cakes, upscale dining, outdoor beer garden and cocktail lounge.  I love sitting in the Chinese garden section of the house complete with it's it moon gate and koi ponds.  A welcome respite from the hot and hectic world outside.

Walking with Daddy

I've always been Daddy's girl.  Since his passing in May 2022, I've tried many ways to keep his memory alive for myself.  One of my favourite pilgrimages is to go for a walk in Georgetown, Penang. Drawing on his stories, I love re-tracing the steps he would have taken from home to school.

The walk starts at Beach Road Fire Station, where my dad lived with his family.  My grandfather was the chief mechanic and driver of the longest fire engine in Penang in the 1950's.  He was a dedicated fireman who died in his uniform, from a heart attack at the prime age of 50.

Kapitan Kling mosque street is lined with money changers and nasi kandar stalls.  This is where my dad used to stop for his daily breakfast. Ten cents for a plate of nasi kandar and fish curry.  If the mamak was feeling generous, he would throw in a piece of beef for free.  Which my dad technically was not allowed to eat, coming from a Buddhist family.  But he whacked it anyway!

The Goddess of Mercy temple is where my grandmother offered prayers on festival days.  Built in 1728, this 300-year old temple is the oldest Buddhist temple in Penang.  The centuries-old tree in the courtyard of the temple would have rustled its leaves as my dad ran past it every day on the way to and from school.

The back of Assumption Church hosted many of my dad's infamous fights, including one which almost got him expelled from school.  The losing opponent reported my dad to his brother who was a teacher.  When called to the Principal's office, my dad produced a signed contract with two signatures stating that both boys had agreed to a friendly match to test their boxing skills.  Case closed.  

St Xavier's Institution is the seat of my dad's happiest childhood memories and achievements.  The street urchin found his calling in the athletic fields as a 110-yard hurdle champion training under Jimmy Boyle, one of Malaysia's most beloved composers, who also happened to be dad's athletics teacher.  He also spent many happy days as a Boy Scout, which provided an excellent foundation for his career as a soldier in the Malaysian Army. He was a proud Xavieran till his dying day.

A tourist in Penang

The best thing about taking a career break is that you can really relax and enjoy your travels, even to familiar destinations that you've been countless times. That's what happened to me in Penang - where my parents have lived for almost 20 years.

Catching up with Selina Rogers at China House in Georgetown

It was such a treat to meet up with Selina Rogers, a BBGS classmate who now resides in Penang. We haven't seen each other since the mid '80s and when she offered to show me a side of Penang that I rarely get to experience, I jumped at the chance.  It was a welcome change to enjoy a dinner in the salubrious surroundings of China House, instead of the usual hawker stalls. Thanks so much for your hospitality, Selina!

We started at Armenian Street, which has become an iconic tourist destination thanks to the wall murals by Ernest Zacharevic, a Lithuanian artist who has captured the cheeky charm of local Penangites so well. "Little Children on a Bicycle" is a delightful art installation to be enjoyed by locals and tourists alike. 

There are so many interesting facades to the shops and clan houses in Georgetown, and I really should slow down to enjoy all that's on offer in my own backyard more often.

I love Durians

Can you imagine driving 350kms from Singapore to KL, resting a night, then driving another 400kms to Penang to stay a mere 48 hours? What would possess Aunty Jo Jo to do something as manic as that? DURIANS of course!

Its durian season in Penang and I had to be there for my ang heh (red prawn) and D24! Yumms..

And of course, I got to spend some time with Mum & Dad too! :-)

Backwaters of Penang

On the second day of Chinese New Year, in the last few years, my family heads to Gertak Sanggul, which is located on the southeastern tip of Penang island. It is the home of Ah Huat, my cousin who is also my god-brother. He makes it a point to return from Kelantan with his family to celebrate CNY with the entire clan.

Before dinner, I will always make a trip down to the beach and walk along the weather-beaten jetty to enjoy the glorious sunsets.

Fishing boats along Gertak Sanggul, which was one of the areas devastated by the Christmas tsunami of 2004

Almost home

Yes, I'm KL-born and bred, but Penang is also special. It's my father's hometown and this is where my parents have chosen to retire. The laid-back island lifestyle, heavenly food and close family & friends are the main attractions.

Penang is almost home because there are so many scenes that stir up familiar and comforting memories for me.

Let's take the canopy of century-old trees along Scotland Road as an example. They seem to whisper secrets of a genteel past; a capsule of nature that hints of a bygone era.

Then there's the Buddhist temple in Ayer Itam which I visit once a year. This is where the memorial plaques of my paternal grandparents are placed. I usually bring some flowers to place in front of the memorial cabinet, while others around me burn joss-sticks. My Christian faith requires that I show respect in a different way, but my visits are no less sincere.

My parents and their family at Bayan Baru Methodist Church, Penang

There's also a wonderful sense of community and "kampung"ness in the warmth of Penang people. I'm especially pleased that my parents are surrounded by a family of believers at the Bayan Baru Methodist Church. I've never seen them so happy, engaged and involved in church life. Seeing these pictures of Dad & Mum heartily embracing their brothers and sisters, clearly God is good.

And last but not least, Penang has always been about family. This is where most of my closest relatives live. So this is where we all return to for the Chinese New Year reunion dinner.

This is where my memories are made.

Penang's best-kept secret

The best hawker food is found in Penang, and very few Malaysians would dispute that. However, once you arrive in Penang - where exactly can you find that elusive pot of gold?

The most famous spot for tourists is probably Gurney Drive, and while the food is reasonably good, it is undoubtedly a tourist trap. Hawkers there tend to charge a premium to those who have "foreign" accents - woe to the Mandarin-speaking Singaporeans and Cantonese-speaking KL-ites.

Another popular spot is New Lane, which has also recently become known to tourists - and hence - a bane for local Penangites.

Where do Penangites go when they want a dose of their favourite curry laksa, char koay teow, pasembur, koay teow thn'g or popiah?

My father is a true-blue Penangite (who counts many a hawker among his family and friends), and he considers this hawker centre to be the best in Penang - in taste and value. I will probably get into trouble with locals for revealing its secret location, but food this good just cannot remain anonymous any longer.

My family's favourite hawker haunt in Penang is at....(drum rolls please)...Cecil Street Market or "Chit Teow Lor" (or 7th Street in Hokkien)

This is the list of delights that I tuck into every time I'm back in Penang:

• Curry mee - with tau pok, cockles and chicken. The sambal and curry sauce is to die for!
• Koay teow thn'g - with duck meat and fishballs is very tasty so don't be fooled by its bland appearance
• Char koay teow - this version is the best I've ever had. The hawker only starts his stall at 1pm (on the furthest end of the food court) and he still uses the old-fashioned charcoal stove with a hand-cranked propeller fan. Ask for the duck egg version...yummmyyy....
• Pasembur or "cheh hu" - is the Chinese version of the mamak rojak which has prawn fritters, coconut fritters, taufu and lots of veges - topped with a delicious red sauce
• Popiah - sold at this market is done in true blue Penang fashion and doused with some turnip gravy
• Nyonya kueh - many varieties are sold here and some of my favourites to "tah pau" home include kuih talam, pulut tai tai, onde-onde, ang ku and bengka ubi

So to those of you who're always asking me where to find the best hawker food in Penang - you have your answer so...

GO FORTH AND GORGE!