Season's Greetings from Joanna (2008)

Dear Family and Friends,

How quickly the years have flown! This is the 8th edition of my Christmas newsletter and I'm so grateful for your feedback and encouragement. An amusing refrain that I've heard over the years is this - "Joanna, where do you get the energy? I'm tired from just reading your letters!" Ha..ha..I promise not to disappoint this year :-)

2008 has been a very fulfilling year on a personal level because I spent six months living in Shanghai, China. During that time, I kept a blog journal entitled The China Diaries, which you're welcome to read in full. Some of the highlights include:

• Visiting Xian and seeing the 2000-year old terracotta armies of Qin Shi Huang with my parents
• Climbing the magnificent Great Wall of China
• Entering the majestic Forbidden City in Beijing
• Exploring the noisy, bustling streets of old Shanghai while living comfortably in Pudong - the new city
• Sailing along the Grand Canal that stretches almost 2000 kms from Hangzhou to Beijing
• Eating scorpions, whole frogs and duck's tongue and all other manner of bizarre Chinese delicacies
• Seeing the treasures of the Chinese dynasties at the National Palace Museum in Taipei
• Making some wonderful new friends along the way
  

More than anything, I am so grateful for the opportunity to learn the language, history and culture of my ancestors. Being able to speak Mandarin is really a dream come true.

Some equally memorable moments in 2008 include:-

• Exploring the ancient temples of Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Phrom in Siem Reap, Cambodia
• Boarding a school boat in Tonle Sap Lake to present stationery to Cambodian schoolchildren
• Learning about the battle of Alamo in San Antonio, Texas and seeing Davy Crockett's rifle and hair!
• Celebrating Barack Obama's win with Californians in Sacramento
  
• Tasting meatloaf for the first time at Mel's Diner in San Francisco
• Enjoying my fill of musicals with "We Will Rock You" and "Avenue Q" in Singapore, and "The Color Purple" in Sacramento
  
• Accepting Permanent Residency (PR) in Singapore, which effectively binds me to this city state for the longer term
  

And as I reflect on this past year, my heart is filled with gratefulness. I thank God for carrying me safely through these journeys in a fragile world of earthquakes, terrorist bombings and political & economic strife. My prayer for 2009 is that all of us will continue to dream big dreams, live full lives and believe that the world can be a better place because we're all M.A.D (Making A Difference).

Here's wishing you a HAPPY NEW YEAR and a wonderful 2009!

Around the world in four hours

The first time I went on a trip around the world, it only took a couple of hours and didn't cost a thing. Since then, I have taken many a journey - curled up in a comfortable chair with a good book. Today, I was reminded of that simple pleasure.

I took a train to Orchard Road this morning and entered Borders Bookstore at 10am. It's one of my favourite places in Singapore because it's full of books, magazines and music, and customers are welcome to chill and browse to their hearts' content. Worming my way round the store with a basket in hand, I piled up on books and magazines that looked interesting. Then I settled into my favourite seat (in the Art section) and took a trip around the world.

• The Economist confirmed that cash is king in today's credit-squeezed world. It also mentioned that Asia is likely to weather the financial storms better than anyone else.
• Tony Wheeler took me to the Best Places to Travel to in 2009. These include Algeria, Georgia, Bangladesh and Oman. Plus it had a write-up about all the countries in the world. What a bargain for $30!
• Batak Sculpture brought me face-to-face with my Northern Sumatran heritage for the first time. I learnt about their fierce demeanour (how true!), xenophobia and how all clansmen can be traced to a common ancestor named Si Raja Batak. There are also six distinct groups namely Mandailing, Angkola, Toba, Pakpak/Dairi, Simalungun and Karo Batak
• 1001 Paintings to See Before You Die reminded me of gentle Vermeer, horrifying Goya, fascinating Mondrian, while introducing me to new artists like Georgia O Keefe.

Four hours later, I walked out of Borders a richer person - despite spending over a hundred dollars :-)

There's a fine, fine line..

...between brilliant and coarse; risque and tasteless. Avenue Q the musical takes all the uncomfortable facets of adulthood, mixes it up with innocuous puppets mouthing expletives and what do you get? Sesame Street for adults!

The musical is currently playing in Singapore and yesterday, I spontaneously got tickets five minutes before the matinee show, slipped into the theatre and was magically transported into a world of fun-filled realism.

It was a highly-entertaining mix of catchy tunes and adult themes like racism, pornography, homosexuality and full-frontal (puppet) nudity. It could have been a disaster but with brilliant writing, comic lines and a talented cast - it completely bowled me over. After all, it did win a Tony for Best Musical. So, go and catch it if you're heading to New York or London or if it appears at a theatre near you.

Vote for Obama

Nov 4 is finally here. And I'm grateful to be here in America watching this historic election. If I were able to vote, it would be for Barack Obama. His book, The Audacity of Hope, is one of the most thought-provoking and inspiring books I've read in a long time. His multicultural upbringing and steady measured approach to diplomacy is exactly what the rest of the world needs America to be. It is also a turning point for America, where a man can finally be judged not by the colour of his skin, but by the content of his character.

RIP Dr King.
GO OBAMA!

Everything is bigger in Texas

- especially the food! So get ready for another culinary adventure with Aunty Jo Jo.

Julie & Joanna having an old-fashioned hamburger at Patsy's Cowgirl Cafe @ Austin

All the burgers in the world (yes, even the ubiquitous Big Mac) can trace their beginnings to a humble truck stop diner somewhere on the highways of America. So when the we heard about Patsy's Cowgirl Cafe on the I35 in Austin, Julie and I headed there for dinner. There is really nothing more satisfying than a burger made from quality beef, french fries and gherkins, washed down with a cold Texas beer...aaahhh...

Breakfast of huevas rancheros (blue plate) and fajita tacos (white plate)

Now, it's time for a confession. I LOVE TEXAS BREAKFASTS! It's so good to wake up to a power meal that's loaded with flavour. The huevas rancheros is a Mexican classic with fried eggs, tomato-chili sauce, re-fried beans and fried potatoes. Breakfast tacos are equally amazing - I could eat one everyday. Take a flour tortilla and fill it with eggs, bacon/sausage, cheese, tomatos, spinach or whatever else strikes your fancy. Top it off with salsa. What's not to love?

Enjoying a Tex-Mex feast @ Chuy's

Food always tastes better when you're with friends. I was very fortunate to have team members who took me to their favourite Tex-Mex restaurant, Chuy's - three times in two weeks! This unique regional cuisine is a marriage of Mexican-Anglo recipes and a common feature is the combination plate. My No.6 plate, as featured above, is a yummy feast of enchilada, crispy taco and chicken chalupa, served with a side of re-fried beans and chile rice.

All said - Texas is a great place to enjoy great food. Yee-ha!

San Antonio Surprises

San Antonio is the seventh largest city in the United States but it's so cozy and laid-back, you'll hardly notice it's size. It is a city that has a deep Hispanic heritage which it embraces with ease and is evident from the architecture, food and culture. So while it was the Alamo that drew me to San Antonio, there were other delights that threatened to keep me there.

Morning scenes along San Antonio's Riverwalk

The Riverwalk was San Antonio's biggest surprise for Julie and I. We stayed at the Drury Inn that's right on the river and we thoroughly enjoyed our morning stroll along San Antonio river. It is strangely reminiscent of Venice in the morning, and Vegas at night. With shops and restaurants lining both sides of Riverwalk, it's the perfect place to observe tourists in their natural habitat. We also enjoyed an evening boatride, sandwiched between a Halloween party boat and a mariachi band. I could hardly hear our boat captain so please don't ask me what he said! :-)

Julie & Joanna enjoying the outdoor and indoor exhibits at the McNay

Another gem that we enjoyed was the Mc Nay Art Museum. It was built by Marion Koogler Mc Nay, an heiress who bequeathed her entire art collection, Spanish villa and 23 acres to create Texas' first modern art museum. I was stunned by the elegance and quality of the collection - Chaggal, Pissaro, Monet, Gauguin, Van Gogh, O' Keefe and Mondrian - amazing. And the outdoor patio and grounds were equally stunning. To top it all off, we visited it on a Family Day so entrance was free. Heaven, I'm in heaven...

Remember the Alamo

Aunty Jo Jo and Julie at the Alamo, San Antonio - Texas

Ever since reading James Michener's "Texas", I have wanted to visit the Alamo - the site of one of the most heroic stories of the American frontier. For 13 days in 1836, a small band of 200 men defended the fortress against the 6500-strong Mexican army of General Santa Ana. The heroes who fell include legends like David Crockett, Jim Bowie and William Travis. A small number of women and children who were hiding in the church survived to tell the story of their heroism, which rallied the rest of Texas to fight for independence from Mexico.

The men who died defending the Alamo were not even from Texas. They came from all over to help other men who were facing insurmountable odds. As I soaked in the history surrounding the site, I began to have a better appreciation for the principles of freedom and fairness that Americans have always defended. These values have extended from the early frontier days to World War 2 to Vietnam and today's war in Iraq.

Remember the Alamo

Sonoma

Julie and I visited the little town of Sonoma, which has great historical significance for the state of California. The town began with the Mission San Francisco Solano founded in 1823 by Father Josepth Altimira of Spain. This mission was the farthest north of all 21 California missions connected by a "Royal Road" called El Camino Real. In addition, it has a great little coffee place which does delicious cinammon buns :-)

The plaque at the base of the Bear Flag Monument reads:

This monument was erected to commemorate the raising of the Bear Flag on this spot June 14 1846 by the Bear Flag Party and their declaration of independece of California from Mexican rule on July 9 1846. The Bear Flag was hauled down and the American flag here raised in its place by Lt Joseph Revere who was sent to Sonoma from San Francisco.

I know I'm in America

I know I'm in America when I..

• Grab a Starbucks coffee and sausage biscuits for breakfast
• Watch two episodes of Little House on the Prairie
  
• Enjoy a lunch of Southwest Taco Salad (lettuce, tomato, shredded cheese, tortilla chips, chilli, sour cream) from Wendy's. Yumm..tasty and healthy!
• Watch non-stop news on CNN America with endless cycles of Obama-Biden-McCain-Palin-Clinton
• Think about Popeye's Southern Fried Chicken for dinner
  

...all in one day!

Sounds like the perfect recipe for clogged arteries and brain meltdown :D

Where's home?

"Why do you travel so much?", "Aren't you tired?", "Don't you want to settle down?", "How can you sleep in a different bed every week?" are just some of the questions I'm bombarded with whenever I mention my next travel destination. Usually, I find it quite easy to side-step the cross examination. However of late, there is one question that I'm finding increasingly hard to answer. Where's home?

Is it Malaysia where I was born? Or Singapore where I earn a living? Or China where I've spent the last six months? Or Lake Tekapo in New Zealand which feels like home in my heart?

I found the perfect answer in the most ironic place. Between the pages of Silverkris - Singapore Airlines' inflight magazine. It's an essay written by Pico Iyer, a critically acclaimed novelist, which captures so eloquently my sentiments about 'home'.

"For many people, I know, this lack of a single fixed home is a challenge, which leaves them feeling neither here nor there. But for the rest of us - the ones who see the glass as half-full, perhaps - it allows us to root ourselves in where we're going and not where we came from, to be free of resentments of the past and be honorary citizens of tomorrow.

I savour the fact that 'home' is a work-in-progress for me, like a manuscript I'm constantly extending and revising and fine-tuning; and I savour it because I know I can't change the fact. There's no single tradition I can go back to and cling to as my own; but there are any number of traditions I can weave into the carpet that is my mobile home.

When, one day, while at my parents' house in California, I went upstairs and saw that we were surrounded by 70ft flames - by the end of the evening, a forest fire had reduced our house and everything we owned to ash - I knew more than ever that home would have to be something I constructed within, invisible and portable, a state of mind or a part of my soul more than a piece of soil."

Simple Pleasures

I'm back in Singapore and loving it! This weekend, I even got to try something I've never done before - kite-flying. Yes, I've jumped out a plane, run off a cliff, climbed a mountain but Aunty Jo Jo has never flown a kite until today.

I often spend time with my long-time friend, Jaclyn and her family whenever I'm back in Singapore. Her boys, Justin and Jared, are my godchildren and they have a special place in my heart so I take every opportunity to spoil them with gifts. This time, I brought back a large eagle kite from Shanghai. So, off we went to East Coast Park (ECP) to try it out.

Aunty Jo Jo with Jaclyn, Jimmy, Justin and Jared (yes...we love our "J"s)

Boys being boys, they managed to fit the pieces of the bird together without any instructions. Thank goodness...I would have tied the string to the beak! Very soon, we were proudly showing off our unusual kite to all the Singaporeans dotting the shores of ECP.

Jared, Justin and Aunty Jo Jo showing off our kite

Up, up and away!

We spent a happy hour watching Archie (that's what we named our eagle) soaring in the bright blue sky, while enjoying the delicious sea breeze. We also traded stories and jokes between gulps of green tea and handfuls of Lay's potato chips, while the boys tussled over the latest collection of "cool" songs on my iPod. These are the simple pleasures that I'm so grateful for, especially since I'm on the road so often.

Zhongguo zaijian! (Goodbye China)

As I'm packing the last six months of my life into 2 large suitcases, I can't help thinking how quickly time flies. It seems like only yesterday when I arrived in Shanghai, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, ready to take on world hunger...hmmm...

And as I sift through the vignettes of my life in China, there's no denying that I've learnt some valuable lessons:

• First and foremost, my command of Mandarin has improved (hip, hip hooray!) after 40 arduous hours of classroom time. This really means a lot because I've always had a mental block with the Chinese language. It's been a (secret) source of frustration not being able to understand or speak Mandarin. So while I'm not yet a classical scholar, I feel a lot more comfortable carrying out simple conversations in casual and business settings.

• Secondly, I've opened up and allowed myself to be amazed by 5000 years of Chinese history and culture. Having seen the Terracotta Warriors, Great Wall, Forbidden City, Grand Canal and gardens of Suzhou with my own eyes, I leave with a greater sense of understanding and respect for the achievements of my ancestors. And yes, I'll definitely think twice before glorifying the superiority of Western over Eastern civilisation again.

• Thirdly, I believe that China is starting to reclaim prominence on the world stage. We are on the brink of a new Chinese dynasty and only time will tell if its achievements will rival the golden years of the Han, Tang or Ming dynasties. And the rise of nationalism and pride of 1.3 billion Chinese citizens is something that we're all going to have to learn to contend with in the future.

Now, to answer the million-dollar question - Have I completely shed the "banana" image? (yellow on the outside, white on the inside)
Of course not! Joanna Yeoh will happily remain a colourful mosaic of East and West - striving to make the best of both worlds.

Feeling the LURVE

Given the intense focus I've given to my career, it's not surprising that I spend most of my days and nights on emails, meetings and conference calls - even on my birthday. But this year's birthday has been very special. I *really* felt the lurrvvee!

Thanks to Facebook, the greetings and virtual gifts started arriving long before the actual day. Today started with a lovely call from my parents in Penang and Julie in the US. And then my teams at work sprang a bigger surprise. The Singapore team sent me a delightful Powerpoint presentation. Thanks girls - you definitely don't need any more training - it's perfect! ;-D

As part of the wrap-up of my stint in China, I'd planned to visit my Suzhou team today for a final coaching session. I was so touched when they presented me with a lovely bouquet of pink roses and a fresh cream cake at dinner. When you spend as much time as I do at work, it means so much to have colleagues cross the work boundary into my personal domain with such sincere affection. THANK YOU so much!

Aunty Jo Jo with Emma, Huang Ying, Mandy, Vicky and Lu Min @ Li Gong Di

Beautiful rose bouquet and delicious fresh cream cake from the Suzhou team

Aunty Jo Jo attacking her birthday cake... and Lu Min following suit

Fitting end to a wild week

It's been a CRAZY week. There's been non-stop news of financial markets in turmoil, bank failures, billion dollar rescues, job losses, political upheavals in Malaysia and melamine-tainted Chinese milk in my fridge. By noon on Friday, I was ready for a BIG drink. And I got my wish.

Sid and John, whom I know through work, invited me out for a night on the town and I gladly accepted. I've heard so much about the great nightlife in Puxi but haven't experienced much of it due to extensive work travel and living in sanitary Pudong. I was ready to *PARTY*.

Aunty Jo-Jo and the boys ready for their dinner of roast duck and scorpions

We met at Quan Ju De restaurant on Huai Hai Lu, where we had fried scorpions for dinner. Yes, you read that right - scorpions - for dinner. The restaurant is actually more well-known for its Beijing kaoya (roast duck) but I thought the arachnoids looked more interesting. In its fried form, the scorpions were crunchy and tasty, a little like eating deep fried prawn shells. I had three pieces and am still sitting here, alive and kicking. Although I must admit my tongue feels a little numb :-)

Five large bottles of beer later, we were ready for more action and debated where to go next. Sid and John are big music fans, with a preference for techno, but this Aunty was in the mood for a more mellow setting, preferably with a margarita and a cigar. Being the gentlemen that they are, I got my wish...again.

At the Tara Bar with our drinks and cigars

We jumped into a taxi and headed for Fuxing Park in the heart of the French Concession. Sid knew of this great little lounge called Tara Bar which served absinthe, cigars and a very cute English bartender. Heh..heh...Aunty Jo-Jo could hardly believe her luck. Why hadn't she spent more time clubbing in Shanghai instead of working??

With a margarita in one hand, and a Romeo & Julieta no. 3 in the other, I was at peace with the world. Having banned talk about work, we had a wonderful time chatting about travel, music, dreams and ambitions (among other more PG-rated topics...hahaha) We even listened to some music that Sid had composed and produced - very impressive.

At 12:30 am, we left the bar and wandered around looking for another live music venue. But most of the places were jam-packed and playing Latin American music which didn't quite feel right, so we decided to call it a night and head home.

I want a big THANK YOU to Sid and John for their company. It was a thoroughly enjoyable and fitting end to a wild week.

P/S: And to those of you who are wondering if I've taken up smoking, not to worry. I only smoke cigars and my limit is 2 per year - usually reserved for big occasions and tough weeks.

Playing with your food

Yang Rou Pao Mo is a local Xian Muslim dish that's really FUN to eat because they encourage you to play with your food! Even my mother, the super-strict school teacher, was highly amused when we had it for lunch on our last day in Xian.

1) Assemble an empty bowl, a couple of mo (or unleavened wheat buns) and cloves of sweet pickled garlic.

2) Shred the mo into tiny pieces - the smaller the better. Believe me, it's not as easy as it looks because the buns are incredibly dense and compact. It took us almost 15 minutes to shred just one bun. Our wrists were sore from all the repetitive peeling action. Lisa, our native guide, was of course the quickest bun shredder!

3) Once you've got a bowl full of shredded bits, the waiter will label your bowl with a personal tag and your choice of soup: mutton or beef. I chose mutton, since that's the original version. I was also glad to see the personal tag as I didn't want to lose my bowl of shredded mo after all that hard work!

4) The tagged bowls are then taken away to the kitchen for further processing.

4) The waiter returned with my completed Yang Rou Pao Mo and here's what it looks like. Soup had been added and there were also bits of mutton, tang hoon (glass noodles), black fungus and spring onions. You're welcome to add other condiments such as chilli and sweet pickled garlic. I'm not a fan of garlic chunks in any form so I just added the chilli and tucked in.

Verdict?...errr...it's probably an acquired taste. The simple mutton soup was a little too overpowering and the soppy bits of wheat dough reminded me of the contents of an air-sickness bag. Still, it was a thoroughly enjoyable experience and we'd definitely recommend it to anyone who finds themselves in Xian.

Bing Ma Yong

Walking into underground vault containing the Army of Terracotta Warriors (Bingmayong) was a dream come true - in more ways than one. Not only were the historical features better than the National Geographic channel, these men are perfect. Strong - Confident - Quiet. Pity they're all stone cold ;-)

The 2200-year old army stands guard over the ancient imperial tomb of Qin Shi Huang - the first Emperor who united China. While admired for his military conquests and brilliant public administration, his tyrannical behaviour and massive construction projects wreaked havoc on the Chinese populace. His tomb rests 1.5 km from the site of the terracotta warriors and is believed to contain treasures beyond belief.

The army was discovered in 1974 by a farmer who was digging a well. It turned out to be the largest archaeological find of the 20th century, with archaeologists working round the clock to restore the figures of soldiers, horses and other military installments. The farmer hasn't done to badly either. He sits daily at the circle theatre autographing copies of books that are sold for CNY170 each!

Pit 1 - 6000 terracotta figures of warriors and horses face east in a battle array

Currently, there are three pits open to the public with Pit 1 containing the most number of restored figures. Work is proceeding at a slow pace because the authorities are taking great pains to preserve the vivid colour of the sculptures - which disappear within hours of being unearthed. All the figures so far reveal unique facial features, without duplicates. The ranks of these warriors can be recognized by their headgear and battlegear:

• One hair knot - Common soldier
• Flat hat - Middle-ranking officer
• Double hair knot - General (there are only 7 in the entire collection)
• Kneeling with hands at the side - Archer
• Loose clothing with hands together - Charioteer

Xian by night

Xian is a city that has featured largely in my imagination for many years. It is cradle of Chinese civilisation, has served as capital to the great Qin, Han and Tang dynasties and was the eastern terminus for the caravans of the Silk Road. Romantic, exotic and colourful are words that immediately spring to my mind.

So when I finally arrived yesterday with my parents, I couldn't wait to explore the city. Thankfully, our hotel is just across the road from the heart of Xian so after settling dinner & bedtime for the folks, I hit the markets in the Muslim quarter.

What a glorious sight it was - there were trinkets and street food galore! Thanks to the Arabic influence from its Silk Road days, there are over 60,000 Muslims living in Xian and they provide a refreshing touch of colour and culture. It's so delightful to have "makciks in tudungs" (aunties in headscarves) offering their wares to you in Mandarin!

And the street food is simply superb. From shao ping (pancakes) to kebabs to rou jia mo (Chinese burgers), everything is just so flavourful, cheap and halal. While I usually steer clear of street food in China, all the food here is freshly prepared from vendors that have a supply of running water. Plus there was no way I can resist the mouth-watering aromas and sights in that night market. So far, so good.

Street vendors preparing their delicious pancakes and kebabs

And if food just isn't your main focus (why..oh why?), there are plenty of sights that light up Xian's night sky. Just look up and be greeted by the ancient beauties known as the Bell and Drum Towers. These are Ming Dynasty architecture erected in the 14th century to help Xian city dwellers mark time. The bells greet the morning, while the drums signal night time.

The Bell and Drum Tower - masterpieces from the Ming Dynasty

Would you pay $10 for a cricket?

From time immemorial, travellers have often labelled strange practices as "exotic" in order to sound more politically correct. Well, I'm going right for the jugular to declare that yesterday, I stumbled upon a market in Shanghai that is just plain *strange*

The Flower, Bird, Fish & Insect Market is located on Liuhekou Rd, just round the corner from the Dongtai Lu Antiques Market. The market has a pleasant facade of flower & plant shops in the front, but the real curiosities lie way in the back. Here you'll find row upon row of small clay jars containing live crickets! Crowds of people squat around these jars in animated conversation, while poking away at the insects with reed sticks. There are also huge rattan baskets filled with large bugs and other creepy crawlies.

My parents immediately understood what was going on and tried to explain that cricket competitions are a form of gambling. I suppose the gambling part makes sense since this is China after all, but I still don't understand why anyone would want to pay up to RMB100 for an insect. Do you?

Customers shopping for the best crickets at a market in Liuhekou Road